What better way after showcasing a tutorial of The Walking Dead: All Out War, then to paint up Rick & Carl from the core set as a starting point to my new collection. I wanted to jump straight in and paint these two vital characters as I really like the miniatures and, nothing screams out more “Walking Dead” then Rick & Carl Grimes to me! ha
I began by priming the models with Abandon Black, thinned out with a little water to give me that smooth overall finish.
First things first. The Flesh. I’ve never been a lover of painting skin tones, but due to my new venture of bringing dedicated wargaming articles, I thought that enough was enough, time to roll them sleeves up and learn how to get it done!
To begin with, I added a thinned down base layer of Barbarian Flesh to all the showing flesh areas of the model. Face, neck and hands. (I did Carl slightly different, will cover that later on and my reasons why…)
Next up was to fill in the larger base areas. Electric Blue the shirt, Oak Brown for the brown leather jacket and Necromancer Cloak for the police jeans. Once these base layers had been added, the next step was for the smaller, more finer base colours.
Before I could start adding washes across the model, the remainder of the block colours needed to be applied, here’s how:
1) Khorne Red – The fire axe
2) Retributor Armour – The sheriff badge
3) Ushabti Bone – The fire axe hilt & Jacket trim
4) Monster Brown – The belt
5) Lead Belcher – The fire axe blade, the small clip compartment in the gun, the belt and jacket buttons around the back.
Once that was all done, I could start on the washes. BUT I forgot about the base colour for the hair. I used Ungor Flesh to do this. I wanted Rick to have a more blonder hair style so thought I’d have a crack at attempting just that with some similar colours I already had knocking around my paint collection.
Next up was to apply washes and this was fairly straight forward.
1) Flesh Wash – That’s right, you guessed it! Applied this over all the flesh areas.
2) Agrax Earth Shade – I used this for everything else!
After giving both washes time to dry fully over the model, It was then onto highlighting. Keeping things as simple as I can, the best and easiest way would be to just simply add a little bit of white into the base layer colours, to help lift the colours to were I wanted it to be. Corax White was my absolute friend here!
At this stage I then looked at the completed mini and thought to myself…
“I really don’t like how dark the skin colour is?! In fact, I’m going to re-do it” – (Disclaimer I did warn you guys at the top that painting flesh just isn’t my thing!) So with that in mind, I stripped EXTREMELY CAREFULLY the paint off the model as best as I could until I was back at a base layer I was happy to start from again.
(Also during this time, I actually put Rick down to one side and pulled out a few spare Warhammer fantasy heads out of the bits box to practise painting flesh on. And after a few days of finding something that worked for me, I was happy to re-do Rick and see if I can get him finished. – Look out for a painting flesh guide sometime in the future!)
Okay, so as I said, flesh colours was just something I always avoided at all costs, but now, having taken the time to properly learn the best skills and methods for it / along with my own painting style, I felt confident jumping back in and getting Rick & Carl completed. To start with, Bugmans Glow formed the flesh base layer I was looking for. By applying thinned down even coats, I was able to eventually build back up the base flesh colour to a point I was happy with.
Once the base layer of Bugmans Glow was fully dry and you’ve managed to get a nice smooth flesh layer, we can start to gradually introduce lighter flesh tones to help lift the skin features and details to try and give the model a bit of character and life like appearance on the table. Slowing mixing in Cadian Fleshtone with Bugmans Glow, we’re able to the start to build the skin tone. By keeping to the most prominent features on the face such as the cheeks, forehead, nose, chin etc we’re then able to provide depth on the flesh as we’re highlighting those higher raised areas.
Kislev Flesh was the final push. Kislev Flesh has a very light skin tone, which would be the perfect fit for providing those most extreme raised areas with a bright tone on the focal point of the image. All that is left to do now is to base the miniature…But more on this later!
Following the same process as his dad, I gave Carl a thinned down coverage of Abandon Black to act as the base primer and the first thing I tackled was the flesh areas!
Again, starting off with a thinned down Bugmans Glow, I was able to build on an even coverage over all the flesh areas which was smooth and full in colour, until I reached a level I was happy with.
Again, by slowly mixing in Cadian Fleshtone with Bugmans Glow, we’re able to the start to build more depth skin features, creating a natural gradient of darker to lighter tones. By keeping focus on the most prominent features on the face such as the cheeks, forehead, nose, chin etc we’re then able to provide the depth we need to the flesh whilst not using a single wash in sight! Cool huh?!
Finally, just like before, Kislev Flesh was the final highlight for the skin. Focusing only on the extreme raised areas such as the nose, forehead, chin etc we can lift the model that little bit extra by letting the light catch those areas just a little bit more. This is what we’ll call an extreme highlight.
After the flesh was completed, all larger areas needed to have their base colours down. This step was fairly straight forward and easy. Take your time! Don’t want to be touching all your hard work with the flesh colours!
1) Oak Brown – Sheriff’s hat and belt
2) Crusted Sore – Hoodie
3) Void shield Blue – Jeans
4) Corax White – Shoes & tassels
Once those four steps had been finished, the home stretch is in sight! The next thing to do was to focus on the smaller details that needed painting.
1) Retributor Armour – The sheriffs badge on the hat
2) Ushabti Bone – The rope around the trim of the hat
3) Lead Belcher – The gun clip and hoodie zipper
4) Abandon Black – To neaten up around the gun incase of any small accidents.
And now, you should have a Carl that looks a little something like this!
I knew I wanted my Walking Dead minis to stand out from the rest of my collection and given the wasteland / deserted streets we see in The Walking dead so much, I decide to give Agrellan Earth a shot. I’ve never used this before, I’ve heard good things, seen great results, but lets see how I got on using it!
Applying this stuff is super simple, just apply to base, straight out of the pot. HOWEVER!! the thicker you apply this stuff, the more prominent and visible the cracks are going to be. As you can see, I thought what I had added to the base was thick enough, but actually, double that thickness would have been just about right for me! (Love giving helpful tips don’t I! 😛 )
Once dry, (I gave them a full 24 hours to air dry) you will see the paint has completely dried up, creating cracks on the floor as it happens. Here on in, all that was left was to paint up the base in a wasteland sorta colour style and add some flock.
Painting the base in Oak Brown and then a generous dry brushing of Ushabti Bone would give me the texture and finish I was looking for. After that, Abandon Black around the rims of the base would neaten everything back up beautifully. All that was left to do, was to add some flock on the bases and call them done! I used Wasteland Tuft, from Army Painter. for this. These pre-made flock sets are perfectly suited for basing miniatures and really helps to make them pop!
Thanks for reading!
If you like anything you’ve read in this painting guide, I’ve thrown together all the links you need to follow this painting guide step-by-step. Check it out for yourself!
Agrax Earth Shade
Void shield Blue
Wasteland Tuft, from Army Painter.